Diary 16 May 2003

Recent study trip to Hadza Bushmen, Northern Tanzania

I first visited the Hadza Bushmen whilst on Safari some years ago and wanted so much to return to study there Bushcraft skills, as my initial visit was so short. After a lot of saving, planning and e-mails to my friend Issa I eventually arrived in the Lake Eyasi region of North-western Tanzania. The region is commonly known for the popular Serengeti and Ngorogoro crater and is one of the highlights of the tourist routes in the region. For me these areas are more prominent because at one time the region was the ancestral hunting and gathering grounds of the Hadza.

My friend and guide Issa very kindly accommodated me while on the trip and also acted as my interpreter, as the Hadza speak Swahili, but they mainly use their own language. Issa guided me to various groups within the region and I had to note different groups as we visited them. Such as the North Eyasi Group, Far Group, River Group but most of my time was spent with the Eyasi Group. The majority of the photographs in the diary are from the Eyasi group. I intend to re-visit the Hadza next year around March, and I am planning to take small groups out to stay with the Bushmen in the near future.

PICTURES 5 to 7

Food is very high on the list as essentials for the Hadza. Their awareness of their surroundings, tracking skills and animal lore is somewhat mystical. They are very proficient hunters and gathererers and blend into their environment perfectly. The men move with confidence and pace when they hunt taking few essentials with them when they travel. The women’s knowledge of plants in their surroundings when they are out gathering is unsurpassed, as young babies and children are taken along and absorb these techniques very quickly from their elders. As soon as they are able the children help the elders in gathering roots and tubers and the young men accompany the older men while out hunting. Some of the following photos are a little gruesome, but please bare in mind to these people this is their way of life.

PICTURES 14 to 20

The Hadza men pride themselves on their skills and proficiency at bow and arrow construction. On my visit I spent many hours observing and practising these skills that the Hadza take for granted.

PICTURES 21 & 22

Fire plays a major role for all hunter gatherer peoples cooking food, sterilising water, is used as a tool and acts as protection against wild animals. Being proficient at this task is all important. Some nights I spent sleeping in an e-tsako a Hadza shelter. On a few occasions in the pitch dark of night I could hear the howl and whine of Hyenas in the distance. Fire is a good companion in these instances as you turn over on your Kudu skin bed and place another piece of firewood on the hearth and edge a little closer to the yellow flame. Fire making by any means in the outdoors can be challenging if you do not prepare yourself and your materials beforehand. Fire by friction gives you the ultimate high as you create a coal and tease the flame into life.

Conclusion

The Hadza are a happy group who do not wish to move into towns and change their way of life. They have a strong sense of community, share equally food and water and care for each other. They welcomed me although briefly into their lives and for that I cannot thank them enough.